Day 12 Brownsville, MN - Winona, MN

June 15, 2012

Sleeping on concrete didn’t fair so well, nor did the off and on naps that I took through the night’s storms. But at least it was dry this morning and the sun shining. I ate some peanut butter on tortillas with chia seeds and some pistachios for breakfast and then took my time packing up the tent. Wiley seemed to take his time as well, as it could be awhile before either of sees another touring bicyclist. We chatted a bit more and said our good lucks and farewells, I headed north and he headed south.

Barge on the Mississippi River in front of last night's campsite. (Despite the storms, the barges went up the river through the night.)

9:00 and out of Brownsville. Today’s goal was a moderate 41 mile day to Winona. It seemed like the traffic out of Brownsville was heavier than usual but maybe it was my tired self thinking such. I stopped a few miles down the road to take in some more of the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife Refuge and across the road was this giant red barn. Naturally I had to take its picture. I continued my ride, with the lilly pads in the water and the ever growing number of dead frogs on the shoulder. 

Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife Refuge

Red barn across from Refuge

I made it to junction of 16/44 and the traffic picked up even more so. I made a slight right onto the shoulder and after a few miles approached La Crescent. I turned left into town, well before the junction of US 61/14, and relished in the quiet streets of La Crescent. Eventually I came out of town and headed up the high bluffs of the Apple Blossom Scenic Byway road. I knew this was going to be a hard climb but it was kicking my butt and I wasn’t even half way up. I dug down deep, kept my legs spinning, set mini goals, rehydrated, and after a few more turns finally made it to the bluff’s ridge line. 

Looking down on I-90 near La Crosse and La Crescent (I started at that level this morning. Glad I'm up here now.)

The bluff had a few overlooks but the bugs would instantly swarm my sweaty body whenever I stopped. I eventually figured out away to protect most of my face but the little buggers kept up there buzzing. The top of the bluff took me to Nodine, where I gladly circled back to a little general store. I bought some food and drinks and guzzled them down outside, but I did save one for the road. Continuing on, I passed a service station next to the interstate and debated wether or not to go in and pick up some bananas. I thought that my next 9 miles would be mainly down hill so I could just pick some up at the next town. I rode on. 

The road paralleled the interstate for a few miles and farms graced next to it as I ventured down. I stopped outside of one to observe some calves but at the next farm I was chased to the other side of the road by another large bored farm dog who didn’t mind showing his teeth. She eventually went into the field but it couldn’t come soon enough. Up ahead, construction appeared and the road turned to dirt and gravel at my next turn of County 7 (there were no signs before hand to warn of this.) 7 was all gravel and there was a sign down the hill for the road being closed. I asked the worker up top if there was a possibility of going safely through and he said that it should be no problem for a bicycle.

Farm with calves. The next farm had a chasing dog.

First Road Closed Ahead sign. Should have turned around here but curiosity and a potential passing got the best of me.

I took the bumpy gravel road down and around the corner. After 700 feet I came to a downed tree and I stopped, I stood there for 10 minutes, watching as the workers chainsawed more trees and a tractor with a claw threw them around. A few motions by a far away chainsaw operator and I was forced to turn around. Reluctantly, I turned around and tried riding up the gravel ascent (Not only was I dreading the climb back up but also having to ride by that farm dog again.) I was pouring sweat as the heat kicked in and I had to stop often. I finally resorted to pushing my bike the majority of the way up to the intersection above. During the pushing, I remembered that Wiley told me about a warning from the Scotsman a few days ago, telling him to avoid this road at all costs. Man, why couldn’t I remember that before I ventured down? Next time write it on the map.

Notice the tractor on the hill on the left. He had just gone up there and was throwing trees around on the road. No passing this time so turnaround time. Bummer.

I exhaustedly reached the top and took a breather as well as drank the Gatorade that I had been storing. Luckily, the road I was on crossed under the interstate and I could catch a freshly paved dog free road that also paralleled the interstate all the way back to the gas station I considered going to earlier (Hallelujah!) So, that is what I took and this time I stopped in the station and bought a bunch of bananas, consuming two of them and saving the rest for later. I looked over my map, found a detour, and eventually zipped down to US 61/14. 

Going down the well paved detour to US 61. The descents are so fast compared to the sometimes grueling ascents. Had to stop and make it last longer.

The traffic was heavier than what I would have liked on US 61 but the shoulder was wide and manageable. I stayed on the shoulder all the the way to Winona, stopping at the overlooks of the Mississippi River Refuge along the way. I made it to Winona and navigated through town to the Prairie Island Campground along the Mississippi River. I set up my campsite, took a shower at the bathhouse, bought some eggs at the store, and then went back and cooked my supper. I scarfed down my spiced spaghetti, egg, chia, flaxseed concoction, did my dishes, and then crawled into my tent. I made a few calls, checked the weather (another chance of rain overnight and tomorrow,) and I was out at 8:30ish.

Bugs swarming under my fly.

Today’s goal was reasonable but I underestimated how the heat, bugs, climbs, and traffic would get to me on a poor night’s sleep/nap. The turnaround at the construction was another challenge as it meant an extra ten miles plus the pushing.