Day 10 Elkader, IA to Harper’s Ferry, IA

June 13, 2012

I was expecting the early morning light to wake me up, but it was overcast with a chance of rain, so I was able to sleep in until 7:00. I piddled around a bit, ate a little breakfast, said adios to the fishermen, and headed out by 9. I took the route thru Elkader, avoiding the main road for a few more minutes.

Farm and roads outside of Elkdader

It was a cool overcast ride in the 70’s with a hint of rain in the air. I went north to Farmersburg, had a slight chase by a dog, and continued to ride the wind up the hills to Monona. I figured it was time for lunch so I ran into the gas/grocery/diner/Subway store, whatever this hodgepodge was, and got a a big salad with chicken (I was craving some veggies. I also downed a few sodas for refueling (it’s really crazy, I have been drawn to calorie drinks on this trip even though I am otherwise a hardcore water drinker.))

Shed & Windmill near Monona

Overcast Iowa day

Having refueled, I rode the 13 miles to Marquette, stopping occasionally to take in the overcast scenery. I approached Marquette and zipped down the curved roads to town. Low and behold I was back to the Mississippi. I cruised around Marquette, considering wether or not to stay here for the night; there was a hotel at the casino, a plethora of antique stores, plenty of bed and baths (what, no breakfast?,) and a winery to indulge my taste buds. I debated and debated but eventually decided that I would try to make it to Harper’s Ferry, as there is supposedly a bed and breakfast there.

Red Barn near Marquette

Purple flowers on the roadside

Red barn and orange lilies near Marquette

Church now a home in Marquette?

So, I pedaled on, and the open fields that I had grown used to quickly narrowed to an exposed bluff, train tracks, and the Mississippi. A few miles out of Marquette the road turned in a bit and started to elevate. Effigy Mounds National Monument was on the right, so I turned in for a little sit down before my climb. There were a few hikers for the trails but mostly volunteers or workers for the park. I considered walking up the bluff for the overlook, but figured I would be climbing the bluff with my bike anyway, so that would be my ascent. I sat a few more minutes, checked the weather as well as the giant replica eagle’s nest out front (yes, they really are that big), and then continued north. 

Tighter feeling than the open fields

Orange lilies and exposed rock

It was a slow ascent up the bluff but I finally peaked and started to come down. A little ways down I veered right onto 364 and within a few blinks was through Waukon Junction. The road followed the rails and the river and came upon what I thought was a campground a few miles before Harper’s Ferry. I pulled in but only found a man that said the proprietress would be there at 3:00, but it was already 3:40 so I pedaled on. (This “campground” had mobile homes, rv’s, trailers, log cabins, and more traditional permanent homes. Not sure if they allowed tents. I did miss out on farm fresh eggs though.)

Cows our grazing before Waukon Junction

A little ways down I ventured into Harper’s Ferry. I turned right and headed down to the river (I figured that the road I was on would otherwise be quickly out of town, of which I was correct.) I went by the local watering hole and then to the river. I saw a sign for a house a few blocks down, so I turned up the river thinking that maybe this was the B&B (turns out it is a restaurant.) It was a nice slow ride, and a gentleman with golf cart met me, did his little task, and then passed me. He pulled over to a house, got out and asked me about my trip. A few moments later, a woman that I presumed was his neighbor came out and had very similar questions. (I was wrong on that guess as they are actually a lovely married couple from Wisconsin.) I asked them about the B&B (still don’t know where it’s at), considered riding up to find a hotel at Lansing, but ultimately took up the offer by P&B to set up tent in their back yard. Not only did they let me sleep there, but I also joined them for supper and good conversation. Thanks for everything Pat & Bill!

Flags flying in Harper's Ferry

View off the dock

Me thinks the river is high.

Mississippi River at Harper's Ferry